Showing posts with label nimes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nimes. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Bach chorale's secret French connection


As the French presidential election approaches On An Overgrown Path travels to the Languedoc region of that fine country, and, totally unexpectedly, uncovers a Bach chorale's French connection. Nîmes has some of the best preserve Roman public buildings in Europe. The jewel in the crown is the 1st-century temple known as the Maison Carrée, shown in my photo above, which has survived virtually intact because it was fortunate enough to stay in use for a remarkable range of activities including a meeting hall, stable, Catholic church and archive.

The miraculous Maison Carrée is mirrored across the central piazza by Sir Norman Foster's remarkable 1993 Musée d'Art Contemporain and Médiathèque (photo below and background of header photo). This inspired building is, as the Lonely Planet guide says, 'everything modern architecture should be: innovative, complementary and beautiful.' The Maison Carrée itself dates from 19 BC and was originally dedicated to Caïus Caesar and Lucius Caesar before being rededicated as a Christian church in the fourth century. The tides of religion have ebbed and flowed over Languedoc across the centuries, including the Manichaean doctrine espoused by the Cathars in the 11th and 12th centuries which resulted in the Albigensian Crusade.


In the 16th century the tide turned once more bringing the new Protestant heresy down the Rhône from Calvin's Geneva. Tolerance was again out of fashion among Catholics, and the rallying call for the persecuted Protestants in their prison cells and wilderness assemblies was the Huguenot Psalter. This remarkable work, which is also known as the Genevan Psalter, appeared in its definitive form in 1562, and became the most successful hymnbook of all time.

The Huguenot Psalter set out to reintegrate laymen back into the liturgy by translating the Psalms into the vernacular, and setting them to simple melodies. Calvin wrote in the preface that the Psalter contained 'songs not merely honest but holy', and that it avoided what was 'in part vain and frivolous, in part stupid and dull, in part foul and vile and consequently evil and harmful'.

As the Calvinists had no musical legacy they created their own drawing on a wide range of sources including French folk-songs. And in a remarkable piece of reverse osmosis some of the resulting chorales were incorporated back into the Lutheran mainstream, one notable example being "Wenn wir in höchsten Nöten sind" (Bach VII, No. 58). Among the composers who transcribed melodies from the Huguenot Psalter were Samuel Mareschal, Pascal de l'Estocart, Philibert Jambe de Fer and Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck.

The exciting news is that children's voices of the Maîtrise de Nimes have recently recorded a selection from the Huguenot Psalter titled Resveillez-vous chacun fidèle. (The title is taken from Psalm 33 - Rejoice in the Lord, O you righteous). This very beautiful, and desirable, new release (left) is sung in French, and was recorded at the historic Protestant Temple of Le Vigan in the Gard under the direction of Vincent Recolin, and uses the two manual organ in the Temple.

This CD is typical of the cultural melting-pot that is Europe today. It is released by the enterprising K617 label which is run by Le Couvent Centre for baroque music in the north-eastern Moselle region of France close to the German border, and in truly global fashion Le Couvent specialises in baroque music from Latin America.

Resveillez-vous chacun fidèle is much more than a useful exploration of little known early music. The Huguenot Psalter contributed to the development of the chorale form which reached its peak with Bach. This lovingly sung and recorded CD is an important addition to the catalogue, and can be bought online from the FNAC website where short audio samples are also available, or online from K617. As Martin Luther said: 'God preaches the Gospel through music too.'

* Founded in 1990, the Maîtrise de Nîmes brings together young people who are trained in choral singing between the ages of eight and seventeen within the framework of a general school education at the Institut Emmanuel d'Alzon in Nîmes. The Maîtrise provides an artistic education which enables the children to practise a wide range of musical activities. There is an emphasis on baroque music, but the schools activities have also included performing Jacques Loussier's Mass Lumières in 1966 at the inauguration of the inspirational new cathedral at Evry that I wrote about here recently. The photo below shows the choir in front of the Maison Carrée in Nîmes, which features in my header photo. The age of the choristers ranges from 9 to 17.


* The Huguenot Psalter was a product of the Calvinists, and Brother Roger, who founded the Taizé Community which has featured here several times, was also a Calvinist and was born in Switzerland. Music is a central feature of the Taizé liturgy as well.

Top two photographs taken by Pliable and copyright On An Overgrown Path. Any copyrighted material on these pages is included as "fair use", for the purpose of study, review or critical analysis only, and will be removed at the request of copyright owner(s). Report broken links, missing images and other errors to - overgrownpath at hotmail dot co dot uk
Now read how France said no - with help from Father Joe

Monday, November 01, 2004

Pliable's travels


I've just returned from France, the whole trip was very stimulating. I tried to make it a pilgimage (personal rather religous) and travelled light (relatively - I took seven books!) with just a rucksack and used public transport - which is very good in France. I got a lot out of my time at Ste Madeleine, but equally learnt a lot from being close to the French people, and on my own which meant I was closer to the local people. Once again I'm afraid I was left wondering what we are doing wrong in Britain, the French education system seems to be so much better, their town centres are so much more civilised and safe, and the absence of rubbish tipping (fly tipping) by the edge of public roads was noticeable compared with England. It was also interesting to see numbers of young people at Mass in Nimes on a Sunday. (By the kind of serendipidity that this site was created to exploit I was reading Patrick Humphries' Nick Drake - the biography (see A troubled cure...for a troubled mind above), and found the book rich in links to Nimes, Arles and Avignon.

I spent three nights in Nimes bed and breakfasting at Thierry and Jean-Luc's lovely little city centre studio with a wonderful little terrace looking across the roof-tops. Here is the view from the terrace - click on the link for more details, recommended.


I spent five days at Ste Madeleine monastery in Northern Provence. The Abbey and monastery are quite strict Benedictines verging I think towards more disciplined orders such as the Cistercians. To be close to the monks and understand their commitment was inspirational. I found my stay gave me a lot of new perspectives. I can't say it was relaxing but that wasn't why I went. It took me some time to understand the pattern and niceties of monastic life. Silence and the outside doors locked after Compline (20.15h local time - 19.15h body clock time) was a challenge for a serial insomniac.

There were no new religous revelations for me, more a confirmation of what I had concluded already. The life and power of the community confirms an Almighty power, but I'm afraid my unease with some aspects of Catholicism remain. As Ste Madeleine is a religous order in its own right it reports (if that is the word) directly to Rome, rather than through the French Catholic church. There were a number of unidentified dignatories among my fellow guests who were involved in much serious discussion, I am afraid I wanted to drag them all outside, point out the fantastic scenery and weather and shout "Isn't it all wonderful - praise the Lord!" Thank goodness it wasn't a Trappist monastery - they were built in damp and flat regions to avoid tempting the eye with wonderful scenery.


There were some other fascinating and inspiring guests though, including the Chaplain of
Chavagnes International College. This is an English boarding school for boys outside Nantes for an interesting and very valid take on education (would be interested in any views on their policy on television and the Internet as set out in the FAQ section).

Moments such as being led through into the enclosure for my first meal, and entering the refectory with sixty monks in black habits standing lining the sides were quite extraordinary. Being served very good steak while the Brothers had a boiled egg were more perplexing.

All the offices are sung in unadorned Gregorian Chant. The wonderful Baroque stye organ in the Abbey is only used for Sundays and Feast days. I slipped in one morning when a monk was practicing on the organ, and found its sound like a burst of sunshine after relentless the wonderful but relentless gregorain Chant. Compline sung from memory in the dark was very moving though. I bought back lots of CD's (the Abbey has a very good shop which sells their bread and produce plus a lot of books and music) including the Pergolesi Five Part Mass (I'm writing a separate post on that), the Couperin Organ Masses (with plainchant),Ramaud Motets and a wonderful cheap four CD set from Erato (£17 for four CD's) of all of the well known settings of the Stabat Mater. I also bought in FNAC in Avignon the new ECM
disc by pianist Vassillis Tsabropoulos and Anja Lechner on Cello Chants, Hymns and Dances.Again I will write another post on this fascinating disc when it has spent more time in the CD player.

I took with me the Benedictine Handbook (which includes the Benedictine Rule) which I would thoroughly recommend. It is beautifully published and printed here in Norwich by the Canterbury Press - part of Hymns Ancient and Modern. It has a chapter by Esther de Waal. I also tried The Cloister Walk by Kathleen Norris which I found both too American, and if you'll forgive me a bit 'holier than thou'. Also sampled was Henri Nouwen's The Genesee Diary about life in a Trappist monastery in the States, but again I couldn't really relate to it I'm afraid.

Anyway, that is a very much layman's take on my pilgimage to Ste Madeleine. I would like to return, and think I would get a lot out of another visit as I now know the rhythms and nuances of monastic life.

We're off to see a visiting gospel choir tomorrow night at the United Reform Church in Halesworth as part of their very good Arts Festival.

Saw the wonderful Yukio Ninagawa production of Hamlet
with Michael Maloney in Norwich a couple of weeks back - fantastic!

Going to see what remains of Fairport Convention in a few weeks - open the window as wide as you can and see what flies in!

Picture below is Norman Foster's fabulous Carre d'Art
gallery in Nimes, with the Maison de Carre temple in the foreground.